The fashion zone of the National Centre RUSSIA x Sofia Ernst’s project "Making a Wedding"
On July 8-10, the 2nd All-Russian Wedding Festival will be
held at the National Centre RUSSIA.
In support of this event, the wedding wear from Sofia
Ernst's TV show "Making a Wedding" will be exhibited in the fashion
zone of the National Centre RUSSIA. These outfits will show the traditions and
national flavor of different regions of our country.
A total of 11 national wedding clothes will be presented: 7
paired costumes, and 4 singles.
PAIRED LOOKS
Belgorod region
Designer: Olga Ivanova
The look of the Belgorod bride is inspired by a traditional
festive costume originating from the village of Nizhnyaya Pokrovka, Belgorod
region. It is based on the elements of ancient women's attire, conveyed through
modern stylization:
• The shirt is made
of light fabric resembling homespun linen or hemp fabric. There is black
embroidery on the sleeves, referring to the ornaments of the region.
• Poneva — homespun
woolen plaid skirt.
• White long upper vest is used instead of
traditional aprons, and at the same time resembles a shirt
with a swinging bottom, giving a feeling of layering.
• The look is
complemented by a traditional decoration called "gribatka", worn by
married women.
The male look has its roots in the festive costume of Nizhny
Pokrovka's resident, and is adapted to modern forms, while retaining some
recognizable elements:
• A white shirt with
black embroidery on the collar is a direct citation of a traditional outfit
where a black thread was used for geometric ornaments.
• A black vest, which
is used as a substitute for a zipun (homespun coat), or an armyak (a long,
loose, and heavy outer coat). It adds rigor and solemnity to the look.
• Classic trousers
are used instead of porty (kind of pants), but the loose fit retains the
feeling of a folk costume.
Yaroslavl region
Designer: Albina Aliyeva
The base is a festive attire from the Yaroslavl region, but
in a light, modern presentation. The bride and groom's outfits are united by
brocade with a shared motif.
The bride's look is based on an A-line sundress made of
powder blue jacquard with a square neckline. Instead of dushegreya (a
sleeveless jacket), there are champagne-colored taffeta
lantern sleeves. The
pearl crown has been reinterpreted into a light multi-tiered gossamer-looking
tiara.
The look of the groom is based on a natural linen
kosovorotka - a blouse with a standing collar, trimmed with the same brocade as
the bride's. The silhouette is held by a wide belt; woolen trousers are used
instead of a traditional caftan.
Kabardino-Balkarian Republic
Designer: Madina Saralp
A Kabardian women's festive costume is distinguished by its multilayeredness.
First, a girl puts her undershirt on a corset, then she puts
on a thin underdress. On it, a caftan (an outer garment) with chest clasps is
put, and finally, a long dress with sleeve pendants and gold embroidery covers
the whole composition.
For a wedding outing, you also need: a cap with a silver
top, a belt with a silver buckle, and special ceremonial shoes - koturnuy.
A Kabardian men's costume consists of an undershirt,
narrowed trousers, a beshmet — a caftan with a high stand-up collar and narrow
sleeves, a Circassian coat with gazyrs — special pockets for powder charges, a
bashlyk -- a very comfortable hybrid of a scarf and a hood, a burka — a woolen
cloak, which during the bad weather became a temporary dwelling for a
highlander, a papakha — a tall fur hat, an indispensable attribute of a real
horseman.
Perm Region
Designer: Olga Velichko
The looks are inspired by 19th century costumes and
decorative elements, and are reinterpreted in concise architectural forms.
A bride has a column-shaped sundress in the color of warm
clay, referring to an ancient dubas sundress. A silk shrag (a sort of short
jacket, like bolero) of a dark blue shade is decorated with textured
"scales" inspired by the forest patterns of the Kama region. The
lantern sleeves are gathered at the wrist, making a clear silhouette. Instead
of a veil, there is a high collar stand, adding verticality and solemnity to
the look.
A groom is dressed in a dark blue kosoklin (a kind of a sarafan) with diagonal stitching, which is inspired by the shape of a coat and a shoulder strap. Underneath is a cotton shirt with hidden embroidery.
The
light ochre trousers echo the bride's sundress, adding a working, industrial
touch to the look. Accessories are kept to a minimum: the belt is hidden inside
to emphasize the relief of the top.
Altai Republic
Designer: Kamine Satunova
The elaborated traditional wedding costume of the indigenous
Altaians is a result of living in a harsh climate, where every detail had a
functional and symbolic meaning. Modern looks retain a solid frame of form and
ornament, but they are reinterpreted in a lighter presentation. The shape and
proportions remained recognizable, but became lighter and softer.
Republic of Buryatia
Designer: Evgenia Murdygeeva
The looks were inspired by traditional wedding costumes of
the Buryats.
They are based on classic elements: a dagel robe with a
stand-up collar, a wide belt, traditional hats and decorative pendants. The designer
reinterpreted these shares, preserving the spirit, but adapting them to modern
aesthetics and functionality.
Khabarovsk Territory
Designer: Tatiana Vasilyeva
The inspiration was given by traditional Nanai wedding
costumes.
A bride has a one-piece dress made of light fabric with a
photo print, referring to the traditional print. A stand-up collar with dark
edging adds clarity to the look. The look is complemented by an amulet sewn in
the costume as an element of protection and connection with the family.
The groom has a bleached shirt and an elongated cardigan
made of black cloth, a modern version of the traditional fur robe. Monochrome
trousers and shoes emphasize minimalism. Amulet decorations are also used in
the design of the look.
Photo prints instead of skins, soft fabrics and laconic
shapes make the costumes expressive and comfortable.
SINGLE LOOKS
Republic of Abkhazia (men's suits)
Designer: Guliza Avidzba
The inspiration was taken from the Abkhazian traditional
man's costume. Like many other such costumes of peoples of the Caucasus, it
includes the Circassian hat.
The man wedding wear was reinterpreted in the light of
wedding aesthetics of the Coast, preserving the key ethnic elements.
Irkutsk region (Village of Pikhtinsk) (men's suits)
Designer: Polina Akimova
The look is based on a festive man's clothing set typical
for the Siberian golendras. These people are descendants of Western European
(Dutch and Polish) colonists who moved to Irkutsk province at the beginning of
the 20th century. The costumes of these "Siberian Dutch" people
combined the European sartorial fashion and peasant practicality.
On weekdays, the Golendra tied a thin cord, on holidays they
tied a colored ribbon. Light cotton with a soft stand-up collar, and a narrow
two-tone ribbon (blue + white) instead of a cord is a fresh accent.
Key ideas for rethinking:
1. Lightweight
materials: tweed and thin cotton instead of heavy cloth, so that the suit
"breathes" and does not crease.
2. Minimalism
layer-by-layer: the vest was left as the main historical marker, the upper
jacket and hat were removed when indoors.
Thus, we have preserved the DNA of the Golendra costume
(standing cord, tweed vest, laconic cut), but simplified the silhouette and
materials for the aesthetics of a modern wedding.
Irkutsk (women's suits)
Designer: Elena Maksimova
To create the Irkutsk wedding look, we got the inspiration
from the traditional costume of the Russian Siberians — a shirt with a
turn-down collar, a brocade sundress and a dushegreya. The modern version
retains the basic lines.
The skirt is made of shiny silk satin of a warm golden
shade.
In order to avoid overloading the look, while keeping the
idea of an additional warm layer, we replaced the dushegreya with a light
bolero corset. And a laconic corset lacing repeats the ancient technique of
tight chest inset.
Republic of Buryatia (the village of Bichura) (women's
suits)
Designer: Shide Naidanova
The bride's look is inspired by a wedding costume of the Old
Believers of Transbaikalia. It is based on a bright color and a symbolic kichka
(a type of ancient headdress) under a headband.
One-piece robe dress. The color of the dress refers to
a traditional sundress, but it is made lighter and looser.
There is a kichka on a head, with a characteristic "horn", completely
hidden by a printed headband. Instead of the gold embroidery on the border,
small beads are embroidered, creating the same ritual accent.
The look is assembled in a laconic way: heavy petticoats and
layering are removed to preserve the silhouette, color and symbolism, and at
the same time to give more air.
The
creative team of the "Making a Wedding" project (istokdk.ru) conducts
weddings based on a mixture of traditional rituals and modern wedding
celebrations. One of the main tasks of the project is to make the
outfits for a bride and for a groom. The stylists of the project, together with
designers from those regions where the weddings are to be held, develop modern
outfits, and harmoniously put the elements of the traditional costumes into
them.
Learn more about manufacturers and products
Guests of the National Centre can explore the connection between architecture and fashion trends at Sergey Sysoev’s exposition in the new "Fashion" section.